Knits and Purls – Why Stockinette Stitch Curls (and What to Do About It)
If you’ve ever finished a beautiful swatch of stockinette only to watch it curl up into a little woolly taco… trust me, you’re in good company. Stockinette has opinions — and one of them is: “I will curl no matter what you do.”
But why does this happen? And how do you work with stockinette instead of fighting it? Let’s break it down.
Why Stockinette Stitch Curls
Stockinette (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side) is an unbalanced fabric.
The knit side and purl side don’t use the same amount of yarn — knit stitches use slightly less, which pulls the fabric toward the knit side.
This tension has to go somewhere, and it usually goes straight into curling at all four edges.
What contributes to curling:
-
Uneven tension (most people knit tighter than they purl)
-
Long uninterrupted stretches of stockinette
-
Tight gauge or smaller needles
-
Fiber content (cotton curls harder; wool relaxes more)
So yes — your swatch, your scarf, your sweater hem… all doing the stockinette taco? Normal.
🧵 Stitches That Naturally Lay Flat
Not all fabrics have this battle. Some stitches are naturally balanced and beautifully flat.
✔ Garter Stitch (all knit)
Even though it’s all knit, each ridge balances itself.
Minimal curl, maximum coziness.
✔ Seed + Moss Stitch
Equal knits and purls keep everything in harmony.
✔ Lace Stitches
Yarn overs act like tiny built-in tension releasers.
(But large stockinette sections at the edges of lace can still curl!)
✔ Ribbing
Ribbing doesn’t curl — it cinches inward, making it perfect for edges that need elasticity like hat brims and cuffs.
✨ How to Stop Stockinette From Curling
There are ways to tame it:
1. Add a border
Garter, seed, moss, or ribbing will stabilize the edges.
2. Go up a needle size
Looser tension = less curl. (Not a true fix, but will help.)
3. Block with enthusiasm
Steam and water can work magic, especially with wool blends.
4. Choose the right yarn
Acrylic and cotton tend to curl more than wool and wool blends.
5. Break up long stretches
Add stripes, texture sections, lace panels, or slipped-stitch edges to break up stockinette.
Patterns That Work With (or Around) Stockinette
Here are some patterns from 1 More Row that use balanced stitches and built-in structure — so you get the beauty of stockinette without the curl battle.
🧶 The Eastport Raglan
The Eastport Raglan uses smooth stockinette shaping balanced with ribbed edges that keep the fabric stable and structured. It’s a great example of a classic, clean stockinette look in a garment.
🧶 Plainview Shawl
The Plainview Shawl blends the simplicity of stockinette with a wide ribbed edge that keeps the fabric drapey and flat. Its simple construction makes it a perfect showcase of how stitch balance affects shape and movement in knitted accessories.
🧶 My Favorite Knit Throw
Your Favorite Knit Throw showcases the beauty of simple stockinette while using a clean, structured border to keep the edges perfectly flat and curl-free. It’s a great example of how just a bit of balanced stitching can transform a classic stockinette blanket into a polished, modern home décor piece.
🧶 Tobay Shawlette
The Tobay Shawlette combines a simple lace edge with a smooth stockinette body. It’s a perfect example of how lace structure can stabilize stockinette and prevent curling while also adding visual interest.
Want to Learn More Stitches?
Join the 1 More Row newsletter for tutorials, free tips, and pattern drops — plus first dibs on Wool Honey yarns and boxes.